Well pump replacement cost: what you'll pay by pump type and depth

By Alejandro · Updated October 19, 2026 · How we pick

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These numbers come from published cost guides, each dated below. They're national ranges. Your local well contractor's quote is the number that counts, so use these to judge whether a quote is reasonable. How we research.

Cost by pump type

The pump itself is often the smaller part of the bill. This Old House (March 2026) puts the equipment alone at roughly $200 for a shallow-well jet pump, $300 for a deep-well jet pump and $500 for a submersible, with full replacement at $900 to $2,500.

Cost by well depth

Depth drives cost more than anything else. A deeper pump needs more horsepower, more wire and more drop pipe, and pulling it takes a pump hoist truck instead of two people and a rope.

Parts vs labor

• Labor: about $250 to $1,000, or $45 to $150 an hour (Angi and HomeAdvisor). HomeGuide puts typical plumbing labor at $250 to $800.
• Electrician: $50 to $130 an hour per HomeGuide, if the pump needs a new circuit, control box or longer wire run.
• Time: half a day to a full day for most jobs, per HomeAdvisor.
• Permits: $50 to $200 where required (HomeAdvisor). Many counties don't require one for a like-for-like swap; ask.

Extra costs that show up on the invoice

Ask the contractor to quote pipe and wire separately. On a submersible, they won't know their condition until the pump is out of the well. A good quote says what happens, and what it costs, if they find bad pipe.

If the pump failed because it ran dry, budget for a low-pressure cutoff switch too. It shuts the pump off when pressure collapses, so the next dry spell doesn't kill a new motor.

Picks if you're replacing a jet pump yourself

A shallow-well jet pump sits above ground, usually next to the pressure tank. Swapping one is a reasonable DIY job if you're comfortable with threaded pipe and 120/240 V wiring. That saves the $250 to $1,000 in labor. These are current models with published specs:

1. Best shallow-well replacement (1 HP, cast iron)

   Red Lion RJS-100-PREM 1 HP Cast Iron Shallow Well Jet Pump

   A cast iron 1 HP jet pump with enough flow for a full house and a hose. Cast iron is heavier and stiffer than a plastic housing, which is why many owners prefer it for a pump that runs every day. Skip it if your water is acidic (pH under about 6.5) and you won't treat it, since cast iron can rust from the inside.

   • 1 HP, 115/230 V
   • Up to 23 GPM (at 5 ft)
   • Max suction lift 25 ft
   • Cast iron body, glass-filled thermoplastic impeller
   • 30/50 pressure switch installed
   See today's priceAmazon prices change often Check price at Amazon

2. Best if your water is near 25 ft (convertible to 90 ft)

   Red Lion RJC-100 1 HP Convertible Jet Pump

   A convertible pump runs as a shallow well pump or, with the included ejector down the well, pulls from up to 90 feet. Pick it when your water level is close to the 25-foot limit. Skip it if your water sits well above 25 feet; a shallow-only pump gives more flow for the money.

   • 1 HP, 115/230 V
   • Up to 20 GPM
   • Shallow setup under 25 ft; deep setup 25–90 ft
   • Deep well ejector included
   • Cast iron body, 30/50 switch
   See today's priceAmazon prices change often Check price at Amazon

3. Best budget pump for a cabin or small home

   Flotec FP4012-10 1/2 HP Thermoplastic Shallow Well Jet Pump

   A plastic-body pump that won't rust, which suits acidic or salty water and seasonal cabins. Flow is modest. Skip it for a family home with two bathrooms: 8 GPM at best leaves little room for two showers at once.

   • 1/2 HP, 115/230 V
   • 8 GPM max; 6.4 GPM at 10 ft lift
   • Max suction lift 25 ft; max 77 psi
   • Thermoplastic body
   • 30/50 switch; 1-year limited warranty
   See today's priceAmazon prices change often Check price at Amazon

4. Replace the pressure switch while you're there

   Square D Pumptrol 9013FSG2J21 Pressure Switch (30/50)

   FreshWater Systems calls it the industry standard for household wells. A diaphragm senses tank pressure and opens or closes two sets of contacts. Two spring nuts let you raise the whole range or widen the gap between cut-in and cut-out. Skip it if your old switch has a side lever: that was a low-pressure cutoff model, so buy the M4 version.

   • Factory set 30/50 psi
   • Cut-out adjustable about 20–65 psi
   • Differential adjustable about 15–30 psi
   • 1-1/2 HP at 115 V, 2 HP at 230 V (single phase)
   • 1/4" female pipe thread port
   • UL listed; jet and submersible pumps
   See today's priceAmazon prices change often Check price at Amazon

5. Add low-pressure cutoff if the old pump ran dry

   Square D Pumptrol 9013FSG2J21M4 with Low-Pressure Cutoff (30/50)

   A Pumptrol with the M4 low-pressure cutoff. If pressure falls about 10 psi below cut-in, the switch locks off until you hold the lever at Start. That stops a pump from running dry or pumping out a broken line. Skip it if nobody is home often enough to reset it, since there is no automatic restart.

   • Factory set 30/50 psi
   • Cuts power about 10 psi below cut-in
   • Manual reset lever (hold at Start)
   • 1-1/2 HP at 115 V, 2 HP at 230 V
   • 1/4" female pipe thread port
   See today's priceAmazon prices change often Check price at Amazon

Most jet pumps ship with a 30/50 switch already mounted. Check yours before buying a separate one.

DIY vs hiring a pro

This Old House advises against replacing a well pump yourself because of the equipment and physical work involved. That advice fits submersibles best. A dropped submersible can mean a fishing job down the casing, and that bill can be larger than the pump.

How to keep the bill down

1. Confirm the pump is the problem. A $25 pressure switch, a tripped breaker or a waterlogged tank can look like a dead pump. Ask the contractor to test before pulling anything.
2. Replace like for like. Same HP, same voltage, same wiring (2-wire or 3-wire) avoids new control boxes and wire.
3. Get two quotes with pump model, HP, labor, pipe and wire listed separately.
4. Avoid emergency rates if you can. If you have a working pump but it's failing, schedule the job on a weekday.
5. Protect the new pump. Sand and sediment wear impellers. If your well makes sand, add a spin-down filter after the tank.

Mistakes to avoid

• Upsizing horsepower for "better pressure." A pump that outruns the well's recovery rate pumps it dry. Pressure is set by the switch, not the HP.
• Keeping a waterlogged tank. A new pump on a dead tank short-cycles and fails early.
• Skipping disinfection. Opening the well can let in bacteria. Ask the contractor to shock-chlorinate, then test for coliform a week or two later. See coliform bacteria in well water.
• Not checking the water after. A new pump can stir up iron and sediment for a few days. If it doesn't clear, match your test results to a treatment plan.

Planning other well equipment too? Here's what filtration systems cost.